Solving problems commonly occur at Alternator and Regulator
Updated by: Kylie
On: 19 Jan, 2020
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How to determine the failure in an electrical system must through some steps. To get the best result to need to check and clean up all connections available in the electrical system before searching for to determine is the failure connected with o...
How to determine the failure in an electrical system must through some steps. To get the best result to need to check and clean up all connections available in the electrical system before searching for to determine is the failure connected with one of the two main components in your power charging system: alternator and regulator voltage.
The most common trouble in the charging system will repair by doing step feather as follow.
1. Release and clean all the connection of power charging electrical system from the alternator through the battery (include grounding). Also, check regulator harness voltage for resistance. Cable and terminal can be corroded need to clean up or replace a new one.
2. Charging all power battery fully and decide it’s can be fixed or not to determine the condition.
3. Check and fasten it alternator belt. If the belt indicates signs of wear or damage, now it’s an ideal time to replace. Always replace a good belt with the high-quality product available in your market.
After determining your cable and battery are all in good condition, use a feather test to determine is charging problems cause of broken alternator or regulator. This feather test giving a chance to isolate alternator, regulator and cable harness which can decide which component still works or not. to check the performance of this test, you need independent millimeter (digital more recommend). In emergency condition lamp bulb 12V can be used to decide is their power or not. an Ampere meter and battery with a thermometer are also helpful diagnostic tools.
Alternator/regulator field tests
Test A – the alternator and regulator can be tested for function by determining is there a magnetic field at the alternator’s pulley shaft or rear bearing. To test:
- By switching the ignition key off, put the iron head of the screwdriver near the nut on the pulley shaft or near the rear bearing of the alternator. Should be no evidence magnetic field pulling screwdriver toward alternator.
- Switch on ignition key without starting the engine, to the activated voltage regulator. If switch oil pressure used, a jumper across the switch to the activated regulator.
- After giving time to delay regulator activation, place head of screwdriver near the nut at pulley locked near the rear bearing engine. Alternator. Should be an evidence magnetic field pulling screwdriver toward alternator. If the magnetic field exists, voltage regulator, alternator brush, and rotor maybe work fine. If the system can charge the power, release the alternator and replace it with the new one with a high-quality item.
Test B – if exist or not magnetic pulling toward pulley shaft or rear bearing, start with the feather test followed:
- With switch key off and engine off, release Large harness plug from the regulator.
- Insert edge short electrical cable connector RED plug regulator harness and another end from wire to BLUE connector plug (see figure 10) it’s passed regulator and alternator tested and harness.
- Use your screwdriver, check the magnetic field as mentioned above. With your voltmeter, check the voltage in the blue cable at alternator if voltages not exist, the harness may wrong. If voltage harness exists, but charging is not running, the alternator maybe not functioning. If the magnetic field exists even harness or alternator brush and appears to rotor functioned correctly. If the magnetic field does not exist continue with the feather.
alternator and regulator troubleshooting 1
Test C – Tested actual output from alternator known as “Full Field Testing”. This can be reached by jumping current 12VDC positive to the terminal field at the rear of the alternator. This test removed the regulator and harness; it’s making isolation more easily your investigation toward alternator. Attention: Make sure all tools of sensitive voltages are off before switch engine on. Voltage not regulated while this testing and can damage sensitive-electron. Don’t allow engine work any longer from what needed to detect charging power.
To test alternator:
alternator and regulator troubleshooting 2
1. Press cable jumper to positive alternator field or side of isolator battery, if isolated used (see figure 11). Use alligator clips shielded for post attachments. Accidental contact between a crocodile clip and alternator case can cause damage to your electrical system.
alternator and regulator troubleshooting 3
2. Release the field plug/stator from the rear alternator and attach the other end of the jumper cable to the Field terminal (F) alternator terminal. Attach the female spade connector to the end of the cable field for a solid connection. ATTENTION: Do not let the cable connect the case when it is attached to a positive post. This case is earthed and a damper can occur.
alternator and regulator troubleshooting 4
3. The regulator is now bypassed. When the ignition is activated and the motor is turned on, the voltage will rise and the charging current must be present. The motor must run long enough to determine that the charging voltage is present. Unregulated voltage can rise quickly. Do not allow extended unmanaged charging to occur without carefully monitoring the voltage level. If the alternator fails to produce voltage during field testing, the alternator may not function. Contact your local alternator repair shop or Balmar technical service staff for recommendations. Voltage Regulator Test When you have checked and repaired cables and connections, checked the belt and replaced as needed, and after you have determined that your battery is charged properly, set your voltmeter to 12V and connect the negative voltmeter cable to the grounding cable on the regulator. Typically, the connection is made by inserting negative lead along the ground wire in the regulator binder plug (see Figure 12) and positive lead along the wire referred to in each special test. With the voltmeter securely connected to the ground regulator, test the voltage at the points listed below.
alternator and regulator troubleshooting 5
With the ignition in the OFF position and your ground voltmeter cable connected to the ground regulator, check the volt-age on RED (sensing), BLUE (field) and BROWN (ignition) cables in the regulator plug by inserting the positive end of the voltmeter along each cable in plug harness regulator. The voltmeter must be read.
* 11.5 - 12.8 VDC battery voltage at rest (no charging). If your battery is insulated and your RED (sensing) cable shows a voltage other than the one shown above, make sure that the cable is connected to the "battery" side of the insulator. The RED cable must "see" the battery directly.
** 13.5 - 14.5 VDC battery voltage when charging.
If your reading differs substantially from the "Expected Readings" listed in the chart above, the regulator may not work, or there may be continuity issues. Contact our technical support staff at (360) 435-6100. Save the reading that was recorded in the space provided under "Expected Readings" so that you can share it with technical support people. If your reading matches what is listed in the chart, your regulator must work correctly. Continue with the test below to determine whether your alternative might be a source of difficulty filling. If previous tests do not prove a failure in the regulator or alternator, we recommend that you contact a licensed marine technician who can test your system for wiring and circuits or other system failures that can cause charging difficulties. If you determine that repair service is not needed for your alternator or regulator, please collect the following information before contacting our service technician.
1. Alternator Model.
2. Voltage regulator model.
3. Voltage readings on red, brown and blue wires on the regulator with the engine off, button on.
4. Voltage readings on red, brown and blue wires on the regulator with the engine working at an ideal speed of 1400 rpm.
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